Jul 02, 2010
Got a helpful body to sit on the back rack again, trying to see if the chain tension is a problem. Got him to put his boot on the tensioner to really tension it. Did this or the oil change help? Nope.
Talked with guys at
Cheeky Transport Wayback Machine for http://www.cheekytransport.com.au
to see if they had any further suggestions on the plan of attach, and to give them the heads up if didn't have any joy after trying on my own. I also talked with Maria at
Rohloff Australia
She was very helpful; suggesting what to look at that have caused people problems in the past; chains, sprockets, joiner links, overly tight or loose nut tensions, etc.
The slipping I'm having only happens with heavy load on. It didn't happen when I had the hub in the MTB touring. One reason I'm still going to change the tensioner and look at chains and sprockets. On the MTB I didn't run a tensioner- having slotted dropouts, so could move the wheel back. Load on the MTB rack was probably in the 40kg range. I figured my two loaded Go-Getters were in the 60-80kg range. My helpful body load is over 100kg. He wouldn't say how heavy he is, but was socked when I asked if he is less than the 200kg Mundo rack limit. He assures me he is :)
Result: I'm going to try all the easy stuff first; changing the chain tensioner to a Rohloff one. I'll get two new chains, no half or joiner link, and new chain ring and sprocket. (well swap them around). If that gives no joy, then will send the hub back to Rohloff to have a look at under warranty.
Tracked down a torque wrench and spent some time this afternoon checking bolts that I've touched on the external gear mech, OEM adaptor plate, and axle nuts. Found I had everything too loose. Wasn't that surprised on the smaller bolts - I was worried about doing damage making them too tight without the torque wrench. The axle nuts - I was surprised how tight they get done up. I've had problems with the nuts working loose before - so guess now they are tight. Will wait for the tensioner and new chains before trying a heavy load again.
Also had a go with the oxy - and plugged up one leak in the frame. What's this about? I put all stainless button head bolts with washers in all the braze-on's on the Mundo - to stop water entry. There are lots of them, which is really handy. As I was doing this I squirted some light oil in the frame. I noticed that it leaked out of two on the rack. It looked like that when the weld went around the tube, they missed by pin prick meeting up to the start of the weld. A drop of braze to plug it up. I put some more oil in after this, but found I missed sealing one of them. Will do that one again tomorrow.
Back to waiting on parts to arrive, before testing it all. In the mean time - time to go riding.
Comments:
Date: 2010-07-06 12:26
Author: Anonymous
Is the chain tensioner adjustable for alignment? ( I don't know much about these) I could guess that alignment might be more of an issue at speed and under load. Just a thought. You'll figure it out I'm sure.
Jul 01, 2010
Well, it was up, up, up, then down, down down. Yep, day one was all uphill. Second day was coasting back down again. The escape was probably doomed for a several reasons. Mainly for lack of fully loaded practice ride I think. Problems started from lack of planning;
The danger of the large Go-Getters is that you can fool yourself into leave packing until the end, thinking that you can throw it all in the bags. And you can. However, the packing doesn't get that much scrutiny with this method. On checking during the inevitable repack on the road I found that I had things that should never have made it onto the bags in the first place -> metal files, spray tins of paint, large squirt gun tubes of glue, saws, more than once set of some tools, rolls of leather, etc. There were bags wrapped in plastic, that I wasn't game to open, for fear of what I'd find inside them.
With such large bags, everyone feels that you have space to carry - well everything. I had planned to take some back roads, figuring on about 4 days between towns. I had some pasta, soup, dried peas, sultanas for this. I stopped and repacked when it started to shower - as I'd just left bags sitting on the back rack. I ended up with over half of one Go-Getters filled with food! This is an insane amount for one person. Not only that, but some of the stuff was straight out of the fridge - damp - wrapped in plastic, in panniers, in the sun (when it appeared - always when creeping upwards), was making for a soup. I consumed way more than I wanted that night and next morning, trying to avoid mould, and to free up space. I don't think you can claim lightening of the load, when you eat it... I still had stuff that went back in the fridge when I returned.
The sun when it was out - I had a thermometer, it hit close to 40 before I noticed and put it under cover. Humidity was up there - I was a mass of sweat. The day was a mix of showers, sun, showers. I didn't bother with wet gear - was wet enough from sweating.
I think it is the chain tensioner which is causing problems. It had been behaving without a problem in test rides, but it didn't play well with the loaded bags. Something was slipping/jumping. I don't think it is the hub - as it has never skipped before, and has 3000km on it. If I pretended I had a single speed - the chain would not skip if I was travelling slow enough, no matter what the gear. Chain skip occured more in the higher gears than the low. The low gears, I had to be spinning crazyily to have it happen. My thinking is that at the faster speed, the road bumps gave the chain that bit more bounce, to press outwards just enough enough to jump a tooth or two. I've taken the chain guard off to see better what's happening - but that far back, its hard to see. I tried to simimulate the problem pedalling with the front brake on - but unless I go fast enough, there isn't a problem. So, going to change the chain tensioner to the two wheel versions. This will cause the chain to hang lower, destroying my nice chain line, but such is life.
Update this morning: I went for a ride with the usual ride stuff on and had no problems - much as I tried. Returned and had someone sit on the back and watch while I pedaled, then we swapped. Me pedaling, it would skip. Hard to tell what it is though. When I was on the back, it only happened a couple times. Neither of us could see the chain jumping - but it is hard to tell. Feels like and sounds like its jumping a link. I do have a half link and a joiner link, but it can happen too often for it to be those two links - which are at the same spot. Need to be moving to have it happen. Going to change the tensioner, change the chain - remove the half link and the joiner link, change the oil in the hub. See what that gives. Hope it isn't the hub, but still think that it can't be - its given 3000km of trouble free usage, though admittedly, I've probably not loaded it with 80kg plus of weight.
There's no denying it was a heavy load. For instance, with all the food only in one Go-Getter, I could not pick it up one handed. Thats before adding on the tent, tools, junk and water. The bags fully loaded - were a struggle to even pick up. But I wasn't out of space to stack more stuff on if I wanted to.
How did it handle - like a dream (not the nightmare ones). Yes you could feel it was heavy - I used low gear lots - just sit and spin. Skipping chain helped with this - I had to resist my temptation to push harder gears. It bounced happily over railway lines and pot holes I didn't manage to avoid. It didn't feel unstable. There was no flex - standing an pedalling was - well, just like standing and pedalling on your bike. Better than my MTB with rack and gear - the rack used to sway. No sway here. Downhill speeds of just over 50km/hr didn't present any problems either - stable at speed. A benefit of the weight I think is that semitrailers and B-doubles didn't blow me about. The upright seating is a real bonus - much easier on my arms and shoulders. Though, for only two days that isn't saying a lot.
So, in the end I had the choice of pushing on for a small town to sit and wait for a different chain tensioner, or retuning to base (so to speak). It seemed a better idea to return. It was it was downhill, I could off load the stuff on my family for them to use, and the local council helped with my choice. They were spraying from the camp ground up the road. I spent some time waiting for them to get away, but after pedalling up for a bit, I caught up to them. Then they stayed just infront of me. I didn't want to breath poison spray all day following them. So turned downhill.
One nice thing - riding along, looking over the side into the water - saw a platypus swimming along. Only got to see it as I was going slow along the edge of the road. No chance of any motorist seeing it.
Comments:
Date: 2010-07-01 16:24
Author: John
Hey Megan. Good post. Ohh, to be cruising around Qlnd listening to Redgum bootlegs on your walkman. Gosh, dating myself now.
Sounds like the Go-Getter bags are awesome: One just has to adopt minamalist behaviour.
Could your skipping problem be because you fit a new xtra long chain to the Mundo and retained the old cog on the Rolhoff hub? What happens is as the chain stretches the chain and the rear cog wear in together, if you fit a new chain without replacing the cog you get a skipping effect under heavy load. New chain, new cogs. New cog for those lucky enough to have internal gears.
Cheers,
John
Date: 2010-07-02 06:43
Author: Megan Webb
Was wondering this also - the chain is one new, one that was on the MTB. It had slight wear. I will try this though. Getting two new chains is easy enough. Can reverse the Rohloff sprocket and the front chainring also.
Did an oil change on the Rohloff yesterday. The oil out was dark colored. The one that went is is clear. So not sure what this means in the scheme of things. Haven't tested if this helps yet, as afterwards I didn't have anyone around to provide a load. Unloaded its no problem. So will ride into town today and get two new chains and try again.
Jun 29, 2010
Finally, heading off later today. I could do more stuff on the bike - but to impatient to get going. I never intended to stop here this long.
I'd like to say that I'm well organised, and everything is ready to just pedal off after breakfast this morning, but I'm not. This morning will be the quickly throw everything in to the Go-Getters. Fill the water bottles - not that much. Going to peel a few coconuts that are here - only thought of this last night. Say goodbye to family. Endure the usual - why don't you catch a bus/train/fly routine, etc.. I expect to get on the road by mid morning. Later than I'd like - but things to do.
Today is down as mostly fine - but all the forecasts have showers from tomorrow for further than I'll be travelling in the next few days.
The road ahead is pretty much all up hill. Heading up the Palmerston highway towards Ravenshoe. There will be detours on the way, so not expecting to get there super quick. Unless my detours don't exist. Yep - Google maps isn't 100% accurate. Telling my brother the back roads I was planning on taking yesterday - he let me know that they don't exist any more - bridges gone, roads fenced off, or plain no road to start with. Actually this last is true - looking about here Google maps shows roads that I know aren't there. But we'll see.
More updates from along the way...
Comments:
Date: 2010-06-30 09:58
Author: Anonymous
Sound like a great time ahead. I'm facinated to see how the Mundo performs on this sort of trip. Enjoy!
Jun 26, 2010
Just about finished building. Did some riding in the rain (again). Slash guards worked well. Will keep them on. Much cleaner feet at the end of the day. Cleaner bike also.
Decided not to use cloth around the Go-Getters. That would involve a lot of sewing - edges and eyelet holes. Although I've a 5000m of thread. I don't want to wait about here to get all that done. In a moment of thinking - bought a small tarp. Cost less than $4. Promptly doubled its value by putting a few more eyelets around the edge. Its big enough to go over the rack, down the sides, and up a short way on the outside. There is also a bit to cover the ends. I'm thinking to run a string through the eyelets and use some ocky straps across the top to hold it all together. I haven't tried it with the bags yet (tomorrow), but it looks like it will do the job of keeping mud of them. I can also use it as a rain shelter when not riding. When I ordered the frame and got the Go-Getters, I did think about using a tarp then - kind of like the Xtracycle Freeloader bags. Wasn't sure, and the Go-Getters were a great price, and they are huge!!. I like being able to open the top and dump Stuff in. Shut the lid and its water proof. The Go-Getters are well thought out - with buckles, and bits of velcro in the right places to pin extra strap up off the road.
Also decided not to cover the chain any further. If I put a disk on the chain ring, there will only be a couple of inches of chain free at the rear cog.
Used a piece of water pipe found on the side of the road to stop the fork swinging right around and bashing the light. Its cut so that the wheel can be almost at right angles - something that shouldn't happen riding. The spring under neath keeps the wheel straight when the bike is on the center stand. Still having problems with that spring - the extra long hoses push the wheel slightly to the right - no much, but precludes hands off riding. Changing the location of the hoses helps - but will wait until I can shorten them before playing with the spring again.
Found a Red Bull can on the side of the road - used that to make some sleeves around the seal on the pedal. Red Bull cans are very thin. The join is is made like this:
_________
\
\ \
______\
When squashed flat - its secure against popping open. Cause to take the pedals off - it has to be pulled off. Tins are common along the road side. Use scissors to cut.
The chain guard does a great job of keeping mud off the chain. All this would have ended up a grinding past on the chain.
Comments:
Date: 2010-09-12 07:28
Author: Anonymous
Hi Meg. I found your blog as I was searching ways to tune up my Yuba Mundo for a long bike tour. My destination is central asia "stans". I've only one and half months to repare myself and the bike before I go. I don't have fancy components but your blog still has a lot of valuable information.
For example your experience with Go-Getters was that they are too big. Good to know that since I was allmost going to buy them. Now I'll buy Ortlieb packs that are half the size. I'll also buy heavy duty rims.
I set up my own blog, it's called endless-upphill.blogspot.com
Feel free to check it out.
With respect, KAI
Jun 25, 2010
Fitted grease nipples to the pedals today. Just before I started, I thought about another idea - just drill a small hole in the cap, and use a syringe to force grease in. A variation of this is what John describes
here
on his blog. I like the nipples with the ball bearing in the end - blocks water and dirt entry.
I've Shimano 324 pedals - SPD cleat one side, flat platform the other. I removed the cage around the pedals first. Drilled a hole in end cap 7.5mm wide. Used 8mm right angle grease nipple - and just screwed it into the hole. Refit the cage, and there is about 1mm gap between the cage and the nipple. When the grease is pushed in, the cap wants to pop off - but hits the cage 1mm later. I'm leaving it there. The whole job took less time then I've spent in the past trying to force grease into the pedal. Greasing the pedals is now soo much easier.
Added slash guards to the end of the mudguards. That bucket is coming in handy. Front guard, I'm not sure yet of the attachment - at the moment its hanging on with two bits of wire. Will see how it works riding before probably using cable ties.
Tried also to make a disk for the outside of the chain ring out of the remains of the bucket - but the curve of the bucket defeated me in the end. Need a flat piece of plastic. Still one piece of bucket left.
All the excitement yesterday on the Corflute - and decided today not to use it. The sign is thick, has more weight than I'd like, but mainly it will interfere with access to the hub. Instead of this, I'm thinking to get some nylon type fabric. This will not hold water, should be lighter than the Corflute, and let me be creative with where it is placed. By tying it on in a few places, I'll still be able to access the hub without having to undo bolts. The main aim of it is to reduce mud splashing onto the Go-Getter bags, so they're not as filthy when I take them into the tent at nights.
Made another 'h' spanner today and put a length of chain on the handle for a chain whip. Not 100% happy with the chain whip part. But used the two spanners to tighten the head-stem nuts - so proving that they work.
Action shot time:
Drilled hole in pedal after the cage is out of the way.
Blury picture of the grease nipple fitted. Didn't totally remove the cage - just the two outside bolts, and loosened the other two to swing it to the side. I left the nipple pointing slightly forward and is up towards the cleat side of the pedal. The cage is lower on that side. I wanted to use the platform side, but then there isn't much room to get the grease gun in.
Got enough grease in there now. If I can find a road racer tube, I want to see if it will go over the seal end of the pedal. That seal isn't the best on these pedals. Any help it can get would be good. Will hunt about for a length tomorrow when I visit the not so local bike shop. A thought I just had now, was to use a bit of coke can aluminium. Might try that first - coke cans are common, and means I don't have to take the pedal off.
Front splash guard showing its bucket origins. It can swing on its attachment point. Not sure yet if it will swing too much when riding at speed and be useless. If so, will weight it a bit. Also want to check if it will be a problem when going through pot holes. A piece of truck tube might be better here.
Rear splash guard - not so obviously a bucket bit. My rear guard is just a bit short, and the light gets coated with mud. Not good. The splash guard should stop that. At the bottom is a piece of 19mm water pipe inserted in the end of the Mudo frame. It plugs the holes, and I have a vague idea of using it to attach a piece of Corflute to - to extend the mud guard all the way down. I need to find a thinner sign first.
Comments:
Date: 2010-06-26 03:29
Author: John
And I thought you were on the driest continent on earth! I like the syringe idea- you could carry one of those with you, whereas packing a real grease gun is a bit much.
Have also seen people extend their fenders (mudguards) by slicing a cheaper cycling waterbottle in half. (only the yuba logo would be upside down then.....)Best,
Date: 2010-06-26 04:52
Author: Megan Webb
I will not carry a grease gun. Easy enough to find a workshops/service station with one. The pedals only need greasing about once a year. Carrying a syringe of grease would also have be a problem - most grease that I've seen for sale, is in containers larger than a syringe. Too much hassle for a once a year lube.
Australia is the driest continent, but right now, I'm in the middle of the wettest areas. Nearby Tully has an average annual rainfall that exceeds 4 meters. Record is over 8 meters.
Date: 2010-06-26 09:44
Author: Anonymous
Really enjoying all your progress and ingenuity. Side boards on my mundo do make getting to the the hub and brakes annoying (I use an electric screwdriver to make it a bit easier). Soft and light sounds good. My wooden boards are great but the brake side one interfered with my disc brake.
Regarding the front mudguards you may have checked my blog on it (there's a link to a more elegant solution too) keller74.wordpress.com/2010/02/09/mudguards
Date: 2010-06-26 18:21
Author: Megan Webb
I did check out your blog. But found that I didn't have a problem with the front mud guard. I've a longer bolt, and a spacer. The mud guard mount goes around the caliper and mounts where it should. I'll get a picture to make it clear.
Decided not to go with the boards - using a tarp. No sewing required, light, water proof and cheap.