Aug 03, 2012
Overall, how did I find it. I'd rate it as the best road I rode in Western Australia. I enjoyed the dirt riding. The level of traffic wasn't excessive for me. There were days when only a few vehicles passed, other days, a short stop while the convoy passed and it was good to go again.
I carried 24liters water out of each road house, so had ample water for the weather to make it to the next water stop.
While I was initially planning 80km days, the cold nights meant a late start to the day - the sun needed to be well up and have warmed to between 5 and 10C before riding. When sunset in WA was at 5pm, I'd stop at 2:30 ish to have a relaxed camp setup. Overall this meant shorter riding days but 60km was achiveable.
I didn't find the road terribly bad. There were certainly sandy spots that I walked. The road in NT was more sandy than in WA. There were times of dragging the bike through the sand. Been on better, had worse also. Corrogations - yep, plenty. Weave about the flat spots, or worse case, ride slowly over each one. Riding was still faster than walking.. Sometimes the sides and the banks were in good shape, but other times they were churned up also.
I experimented with going off road a couple of times, but when the road was sand, off road was also sandy, so it was no gain. Worse in fact. Seemed to be more upgrades happening in WA, but it may also depend on the time of the year of the ride - it upgrades have just happened for the tourist season, and before its had time to break up again. Slowest average for travel in WA was 12km/hr. In NT it dropped to 9km/hr.
The other traffic - is the full list of considerate to "did they see me?". Lots of wonderful people stopped and handing out fruit or other food treats. Always very much appreciated. How can you thank those people enough? I had enough food options at the road houses that I didn't feel constrained. Basics were available everywhere. Prices are higher, but your a long way from anywhere, and it costs a lot to get food in.
Traffic on the Great Central can only go up. Talking with carvaners, many said the numbers have risen in recent years as more baby boomers retire, load up the 4x4 and set off to "do" the desert tracks.
Camels - my count was less than a dozen, till one herd of eight upped the numbers. Not sure why this was. I saw dust in the distance a few times. Maybe they have been culled lately.
Car wrecks also was down. I did spot some collecting areas where perhaps the road crew had gathered up the wrecks. One thing on the wrecks, the cost of a tow from the Great Central Road would be pricy. I spoke to a guy who broke his axle, $4000 was the quote for a truck to Alice Springs. Kalgoolie would be the nearest point in the other direction. Insurance options off road were also pricey, or not an option. So dumping the car could be a sane financial decision, expecially if the car is old, like most of the wrecks were.
One funny incident. I rode up to two guys whose 4x4 had just rolled to a stop. I called out "I can give you a tow, but I don't have a rope". One called back "push push".. They were getting stuff out of the car, and I stopped. "a push" the other guy said. I was worried this point, did they think I was serious? Turned out they had a flat tire, and yeah, the battery was flat, so the more help push starting on the sandy road was certainly welcome. I got a laugh from it.. And yeah, push starting a 4x4 on sand is a hard push!
Aug 03, 2012
Well, after that last post, you probably thought I had a feed of hot damper. Sadly, that wasn't the case. After it was cooked, it was packed up and we left. Thats right, no damper eating. Twas a sad moment. But still, it planted a seed.
As I left next morning, I thought about how simple it looked making damper. Then I met Mike. I'd heard about a cyclist heading my way, but reports were sparodic. I hadn't heard anything in days, so thought he might not actually be on the Great Central Road. Then I met Ted. Wonderful gentleman stopped and we chatted. The cyclist was about two hours back, so at say even 80km/hr, that was a long way back. But then he said later, between here and Warakunna Roadhouse. Oh.. I was 90km from there, so we could meet today. In the end I stopped and made lots of effort to mark the road. It he missed the markings I'd have to backtrack and find him. We met. Mike rode 88km and was going to stop at 90. So it was a lucky chance that we met that night. Ted also left me a block of chocolate. Mike got some of it from me. Ted was so nice!
So Mike and I sat and talked and talked. It was good to met another tourer. Been a long time since my last one. Was a real boost for me, and was also great to give Mike tips that I'd found out the hard way. Go read about Mikes trip at
Crazyguyonabike.com
Mike also lit a fire. So next road house, I bought flour. Got buggered up with the timezones for the weather balloon launch at Giles weather station. Hammered it to get there before 8:30, only to find I was too late. The launch was Central Time, I was on WA time.
Almost missed the shop also, it posted a sign saying it was shutting for a while just as I arrived. A funeral was taking place at the local community. I'd heard another report of two cyclists heading my way. So, set out to find them. As it happened we camped 5km apart and met first thing in the morning. Thomas and Stuart. I'd figured they would light a fire a night, and I'd have an experiment with making damper. Blow me down, I'd meet the traveling bakers. I'd no sooner explained about damper, that it seemed in minutes they'd produced scones, damper, and a cake! All baked on a fire, or a small stove with a couple of pots. Wow. I was so impressed. Speechless in fact. A huge thanks to Stuart and Thomas for sharing some of their skill with baking with me. We also stayed the whole day talking. And next morning I baked my first damper. Thomas has a photo. I was to excited holding my damper to get my camera out.. It was (and still is) so exciting. Been baking a damper or two each day that I can since then. Lots to learn about fire temps, getting the coals right, length of bake time, etc. But so easy to get an edible damper. And so tasty doing the eating! I'm still in the space of raving unbidden to people about cooking dampers. I'm sure it will pass in time... But it is really simple, fun and exciting. Try it :) Thomas and Stuart had a bag of fruit a lovely couple had given them for me. I'd met them the day before and been given a banana, chips and a couple of biscuits. All food that was happily accepted and eaten, but later they thought they'd should have left more fruit. Some people are so nice. After farewell to Thomas and Stuart, onwards to Docker River.
Wasn't too many trucks on the road, but when they did, it wasn't too hard to decide where to be. Upwind!!
The road changed. Hills happened in the distance. Something to feast the eyes on.
Early snake or legless lizard. Whatever, I decided to act and chased him or her off the road before the next vehicle arrived. Sadly, I arrived in Docker River 5minutes after the shop had shut on a Saturday. I'd forgotten the day. So, another day and a half of resting, till the shop reopened on Monday at 9.
Couldn't say there where no facilities on the side of the road. If I hadn't already cooked damper the night before... Another morning, I met up with Henry and Jane.
Weren't too many motorcycles on the road, and even less with a sidecar. Talked for about an hour. They have some similiar experiences with people stopped, asking a few questions and then leaving. Also met William. Cycling on a single speed with full touring gear from Newcastle westwards. We didn't chat long. He was in a bit of a hurry. Speed for him on the sand was slow. We met early in the morning - I was still packing up the tent. He'd managed 36km the day before - so lots of walking. The day for me ended up being 63km, proving what I'd found earlier in my travels - its slow touring on a single speed. Then yesterday the dirt road ended. Tar is back, and with it lots more traffic. Tourists out in force. Until the next dirt road...
Jul 20, 2012
Well, I'd lucked into the morning out bush. First time offered here. A learning experience for all parties. The thought is to offer it as an on going tourist experience. Anyway, I jumped at the chance. Seemed a good way to get some local knowledge, and learn a bit more about the land I've been travelling through. I almost was the only "tourist", but Mena, a worker new to the area came along also. Learned lots for the morning. We had a goanna hunt. Learn't that they live deep down their hole in the ground. Its not really a hole, more a multi level underground sky scraper. Dug down a bit over a meter following the tunnel about as it curled down. Learnt that just because there is a goanna hole, and it goes down a long way, doesn't always mean the goanna is home. Score one for goanna, zero for hunters. But the fire was going, coals nice and hot, so lamb chops and spuds in aluminium foil went in instead. On another bed of hot coals sans the foil was a damper baking. The damper was self raising flour mixed into a dough with water. The fire burned down to coals and the coals raked away. Some flour was sprinked on the ground, and it started browning. The damper dropped onto this. About the shape of a turkish bread, and about an inch thick. Coals were then raked over the top. Some time later, coals raked off and the loaf turned, and coals added to the top again. When it was deemed ready, the coals were raked off, and the loaf hit with a stick to shake all the coals off. Serve with butter and honey. Sorry, no photos provided as cameras were not allowed. But sitting around on the ground we learned a bit about the area and the people. An interesting morning. Glad I had the chance to go along. Thanks to the people from Warburton and Ngaanyatjarra Council for providing the opportunity. Tomorrow, the agenda is up early and start pedalling. It will be another long gap to the next update when internet is available again.
Jul 19, 2012
Well, the start from Laverton, was cool and cloudy.
I had to get the phone out and check the gps that i was on the right road. After that little hitch, there wasn't any choices. The cold mornings continued, thought the days did warm up a bit more.
But the sun rise is worth getting out of bed for.
Lots of empty space out here.
Some of the flowers are just coming into bloom.
Makes the air so sweet. No bees though. Think of the honey it would make... The first few days I had lots of people stop me and ask the questions. Was given some oranges a couple of times. One wonderful couple feed me well, and gave me oranges, apples, bananas, and some nut bars. Their bread, butter and honey sandwich, I almost pinched myself to see if I was dreaming. I was so yummy. I didn't, because I figured that if it was a dream, I didn't want to know. Was such a nice sandwich. The honey was from their local area, and I'd rate it as the best. The last couple days no one has stopped. The most I've had is people slowing down a bit and indicating if I'm okay. Otherwise, days slipped by, just peddling away.
The grader crew where on the move. I found their work though. First roadhouse: Tjukayiria. Was a welcome site. Had to try their Tjukayiria burger. Was so good, had another one. Was told that I was the first person to eat two in one go. I was hungry. I managed to fit another one in in the morning before leaving. Martha, working there, kindly showed me about the local area.
One of the animals in the zoo. Can you see the elephant there? On wild life, I have seen some camels, an emu, and one dingo and one wallaby. Someone would ask how the road is. Well, its a dirt road. Its got character. Some bits have a hard surface, others are really soft. But the secret is to ride on the hard bits. Sometimes I've had to walk for considerable distance looking for a hard bit. I was planning to average 80km per day, but with the cold mornings and short days, am finding that even that is a struggle at times. Fortunately with all the cold, water isn't a problem. I'm carrying 24liters, leaving the road houses, and its well enough to get the distance done. Could even stay on the road a day or two extra. I'd still say that this is the best road I've had in WA. Will be in Warburton another day, then will head on up the road. Will be no reception for sometime again.
Jul 11, 2012
Been a wet, cold day. Was a balmy 15C overnight, and very windy. Then early this morning, the temperature dropped, and the showers started. And so it continued on and off all day, interspersed with drizzle. I wasn't expecting to make Laverton today, but had a tailwind, and I had to keep pedalling to stay warm. Passed a few mine sites today, and a refinery. Was interesting to see small wind mills on top of the poles, with solar panels underneath. Guess it gets windy out here. Started seeing the car wrecks on the side of the road. The number is only going to go up from here. Staying in the caravan park tonight. Luckily it has a camp kitchen: a dry, warm, and out of the wind place to hang out in. Applied for the permits for the Great Central Road at the visitors centre, and got them. Leaving in the morning. Will be no mobile reception until Warburton, about 550km away.
Comments:
Date: 2012-07-12 00:33
Author: Anonymous
Hi Megan, it was an honor to meet you in the Laverton caravan park. We fossickers are in awe at your pluck! For solo travel I carry/wear a little satellite tracker you can see at FindMeSpot.com In MY case it kinda tells the kids on a daily basis "Sorry no inheritance yet" but it does allow the crowd back home to see whether I'm still moving or not and where I've got too. You could also check out Delorme's InReach which is better that FindMeSpot because with that you can craft a message in the field, such as "I need and inner tube" whereas Spot only facilitates the triggering of messages saved and stored (preloaded) before the actual need arises, Spot messages can only be altered while you have internet access. Ernie (the santa claus lookalike)
Date: 2012-07-13 23:36
Author: Anonymous
I just thought that I should add an explanation to any other watchers of Megan's blog about internet access between Laverton and Alice Springs. Where Megan has gone there will be NO phone or internet coverage for most of her next segment. One of our fossicking club members, on his way into Laverton, stopped to chat with her many Kilometres from Laverton and she was travelling well. So for the next little while no news is not bad news. That is what Megan was referring to when she wrote "no mobile reception until Warburton" She was taking 24 litres of water with her.(erniethecabbie@hotmail.com)